I’ve been on a mission this past year to clean up my wardrobe. I’ve spent a lot of time researching clean clothing brands, and trying to prioritize natural and organic materials. But here’s one thing that’s been bothering me for a while now. Almost every clean brand I’ve shopped at has had something on the label that I never remembered seeing on other clothing labels before. I kept seeing it pop up on label after label, from denim to leggings, typically in the amount of 1% to 10%. This material I’ve come across over and over again is elastane. And the big question I was left wondering was: What is elastane? And is it a safe, clean, and sustainable material?
The First Time I Noticed Elastane on the Label
The questioning started after a trip to Los Angeles to visit family. I had seen Everlane clothing online and loved that they offered 100% organic cotton options. So while in the area, I planned a visit to view their clothing items in person at the West Hollywood store.
When I arrived, I browsed the jean selection and came across a pair I really liked. I flipped over the tag, expecting to see something like “100% Organic Cotton”. Instead, I saw “98% Organic Cotton, 2% Elastane.”
I paused for a moment. Here I was, thinking these jeans would undoubtedly be 100% organic cotton from a clean brand like Everlane, yet here was this mysterious material I’d never seen before on the label. But then I thought, “Well… it’s only 2%! Whatever it is, I guess that’s not too bad. Right?”
What is Elastane?
Same Material, Different Names
After that initial discovery, I did what any curious person would do—I went down the elastane rabbit hole. And you know what I discovered?
Elastane is basically just another name for spandex!
It’s the same spandex that’s in a typical pair of workout leggings and in swimsuits. So when you see “elastane” on that clean brand label, it’s the same material as the “spandex” in your old workout clothes from Target or those leggings from Lululemon. The only difference is the marketing approach.
Pure Insight: Yet another name for elastane and spandex is Lycra. This is a trademark name owned by DuPont, the company that invented this material. It’s like how we call all facial tissues “Kleenex” or all bandages “Band-Aids.” Lycra is just one company’s version of spandex/elastane.
More Questions About Elastane
I’m not going to lie… I felt a little tricked! Was this some kind of sneaky marketing ploy? Using the more natural-esque-sounding “elastane” instead of “spandex” to make it seem more acceptable to conscious consumers?
Honestly, I was getting some greenwashing vibes from this.
But then I had to ask myself the bigger questions: What exactly IS spandex? What is it made of? And more importantly—is it safe? Should I be concerned about having this synthetic material against my skin? Is it safe for the environment? And if it’s showing up in all these clean brands I trust, maybe there’s more to the story than I initially thought.
Let’s dig into what this material really is, whether it belongs in the category of low-toxic fabrics, and how to make informed decisions when it inevitably shows up in your favorite clothing brands.
What is Spandex (a.k.a. Elastane), Exactly?
In a nutshell, spandex is an elastomer (a specific type of synthetic polymer with elastic qualities) that includes at least 85% polyurethane (Empower, 2023; Polyurethanes & Diisocyanates, 2023). If you’re wondering what the heck polyurethane is, read the “A Bit of Science Behind Spandex/Elastane” section below.
Some really useful features of spandex is that it is:
- Super elastic (Rathinamoorthy et al., 2023)! You can stretch it up to 600% without losing shape or breaking
- Durable and resistant to abrasion, chemicals, high temperatures, and UV light (Empower, 2023)
I think the easiest way to explain what spandex is (and isn’t) from here in more detail is to break it down into bite-sized science- and history- based facts. So here we go!
A Bit of History & Science Behind Spandex/Elastane
Fact 1: Spandex made its appearance in the 1950’s.
Polyurethane was developed by Dr. Otto Bayer and his colleagues, and by 1937, it had reached industrial scale. By the 1950’s, it had become established in the market (De Souza et al., 2021). And this is when spandex made its grand appearance.
Fact 2: Spandex is made up of polyurethane.
Spandex is a synthetic material that is created by using a type of polyurethane (PU) (Rathinamoorthy et al., 2023; Zhang et al., 2021).
Polyurethane (PU), a class of synthetic polymer, is typically split into two groups:
- thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and
- thermoset polyurethane (Zhang et al., 2021).
Spandex is categorized as a thermoset polyurethane which gives it its super durable qualities compared to thermoplastics.
Without getting too deep into the process of how its made, polyurethane is created using a chemical reaction between alcohol (polyol specifically) and an isocyanate (diisocyanates) (Polyurethanes & Diisocyanates, 2023; De Souza et al., 2021).
Interestingly, polyurethane is sometimes referred to as a “special type of plastic” (Polyurethane, n.d.), while other sources like to distinguish it as separate from typical plastics. This is because, unlike “other” plastics, polyurethane is not just available in thermoplastic form, but it is also available in thermosetting form. What does this even mean? It just means that heat irreversibly hardens it (vs. potentially melting like “other” plastics). Because of this, it has unique characteristics that set it apart from typical plastics (Thermoset Plastic: Definition, Properties, and Examples, 2024).
Fact 3: Spandex is synthetic.
Like I mentioned above, spandex is a synthetic material made with polyurethane (Rathinamoorthy et al., 2023). Unlike natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen that come from plants or animals, synthetic fibers are created entirely in laboratories and manufacturing facilities using chemical processes. Spandex specifically is mostly petroleum-based and is made from the same crude oil used to make gasoline, plastics, and other petrochemicals (Tian et al., 2022).
Fact 4: Spandex is NOT biodegradable.
Unlike natural fibers that decompose back into the earth, spandex is non-biodegradable. Ultimately, the very properties that make it incredibly useful (durability, resistance to high temperatures, difficult to break, etc.) also make it take a very long time to break down.
Is Elastane Low-toxic?
As mentioned earlier, spandex or elastane is commonly used in stretchy clothing, ranging from leggings and activewear to underwear and swimwear. While it adds comfort and flexibility, it also raises important questions when it comes to low-toxic living.
Elastane is made using chemicals known as isocyanates, which are a group of compounds recognized for their potential health hazards. According to the CDC and other health agencies, isocyanates can irritate the eyes, lungs, throat, and skin. In more serious cases, repeated exposure has been linked to asthma-like symptoms, respiratory issues, gastrointestinal issues, and sensitization (meaning the body becomes more reactive to future exposures). There’s even some concern about carcinogenic potential in certain forms.
That being said, most elastane-containing clothes are considered chemically stable by the time they reach consumers. This mean they’re not actively releasing isocyanates in the way raw materials might. So if that is your criteria for considering a fabric low-toxic, then the answer could be that elastane is low-toxic.
However, because isocyanates are part of the manufacturing process, concerns remain around chemical residues, off-gassing, and the broader environmental and ethical impacts of the production process. Add to that workers’ exposure and garment processing conditions (Sharmin & Zafar, 2012b; NIOSH, 2014), and spandex really isn’t sounding too great.
And then there’s the old saying, “the dose is in the poison”. So in that case, that 2% of elastane in those Everlane jeans could make the cut as being low-toxic.
But in my mind, I’m thinking about that person working in the spandex processing facility. I bet that person would have a very different answer.
Is Elastane Sustainable and Safe for the Environment?
The truth about elastane’s environmental footprint is nuanced and important for those of us striving to live more intentionally. While it brings undeniable comfort and stretch to our wardrobes, it also comes with a hidden cost that’s often overlooked.
Here are five facts that helped me decide if elastane is indeed safe for the environment.
1. Elastane is a Petroleum-Based Material.
As I mentioned above in that science-y section, elastane is made from polyurethane, a material derived from petroleum. And this makes it a non-renewable resource. This means that every stretchy garment starts with fossil fuel extraction, which is energy-intensive and often environmentally disruptive. As demand for spandex continues to rise, so does reliance on oil-based resources, which can contribute to habitat degradation and biodiversity loss during raw material extraction.
The process of transforming crude oil into wearable fibers involves significant chemical processing and energy use. And unlike natural fibers that grow from the earth and can eventually return to it, spandex is a synthetic invention—fundamentally different from anything nature has every designed.
2. Elastane is Not Biodegradable & Hard to Recycle.
Once spandex is created, it sticks around. Spandex doesn’t biodegrade, and when garments containing it end up in landfills, they can persist for hundreds of years. Even efforts to make plant-based versions using materials like corn or rapeseed oil are still in early stages and don’t fully solve the broader environmental concerns (Fisher, 2021, Kurańska et al., 2015).
Recycling spandex is also complex. It’s often blended with other fibers, which makes it difficult (and in many cases, impossible) to separate and reuse. Even small percentages of elastane can disrupt textile recycling processes. I guess that 2% in those Everlane jeans isn’t so small then, after all.
3. Elastane Leads to Microplastic Pollution.
Perhaps one of the most concerning aspects of elastane from an eco-health perspective is its role in microplastic pollution. Studies show that synthetic fabrics (including those with just a small amount of elastane) can shed microfibers during each wash. In fact, a single garment can release thousands of microplastic fibers per laundry cycle. These fibers are too small to be fully captured by wastewater treatment systems, so they end up in rivers, oceans, and eventually, our food chain (Rathinamoorthy et al., 2023).
4. Elastane Has a High Carbon Footprint.
Producing elastane also has a notable carbon footprint. Though data varies by manufacturer, some estimates suggest that elastane has a higher greenhouse gas output per kilogram than materials like polyester or acrylic. Its production requires a significant amount of energy, which further adds to its environmental load.
5. “Greener” Elastane Doesn’t Necessarily Mean Non-toxic.
Researchers are exploring ways to create more sustainable versions of polyurethane that are biodegradable or recyclable (Rossignolo et al., 2023). But even the greener versions still rely on chemical-intensive production processes that raise questions about toxicity and safety (Tabone et al., 2010). So while innovation is promising, it’s not yet an official clean solution.
What’s the Final Verdict? Is Elastane Non-toxic & Sustainable?
Although the answer to this question is nuanced, my own verdict is no. And here’s why.
If you read my article Non-Toxic Clothing: Feel Better Wearing Healthier Fabrics, you’ll know that my criteria for clothing being safe and sustainable are as follows:
- Avoid harmful toxins and synthetics,
- Require less energy and water during production, and
- Are biodegradable (are able to break down naturally).
Not only is elastane 100% synthetic and petroleum-based, it is a clear pollutant. Elastane in our clothing can shed microplastics each time we wash it. This negatively affects not only our waterways but also living things that rely on that water source (including humans potentially). And as mentioned before, elastane fibers are too small for wastewater treatment systems to fully capture, which just makes the problem even more glaring.
And finally, elastane is NOT biodegradable. Even small percentages of it in fabrics can cause issues with the recycling process.
Sadly, elastane literally fails all three of my low-toxic and sustainablity criteria for clean fabrics.
Where I Currently Stand with Elastane
Do I currently have elastane (a.k.a. spandex) clothing items in my closet? Yes. Quite a bit actually.
Here is where I stand with this fabric. I am someone who wears clothing for many, many years. Some of my spandex pieces are literally decades old. The big question that lingers for me is, if I toss these pieces, where will they end up?
For the time being, I will continue using my elastane clothing items. But when it comes time for a new purchase, I will not be buying anymore elastane clothing items if there are truly clean alternatives for what I’m looking for (and oftentimes, there are!).
My Elastane Chat with Everlane
I had a brief little chat with Everlane, and I will say that I appreciate their honesty. Here is the conversation I started up in response to the elastane in those pair of jeans I was telling you about at the beginning of this article.
For the record, Everlane does offer 100% organic cotton jeans. You just have to read the material labels carefully to make sure the pair you’re looking at matches what you’re looking for!
The Bigger Picture on Elastane (a.k.a. Spandex)
It’s easy to overlook elastane. It’s often just a small percentage on a clothing label—1%, 5%, maybe 10%—tucked away behind words like “organic cotton” or “recycled fabric.” But small numbers can add up to big impact.
Consider this: the elastane market was worth $7.4 billion in 2020 and is projected to reach $8.8 billion by 2027. Demand has been rising nearly three times faster than other fibers in the apparel industry. And even though elastane makes up just over 1% of the global fiber market, that amounted to almost 1.4 million tonnes (fyi, tonnes are 9% larger than tons!) of fiber in 2023 alone. And only 3% of that came from recycled sources (Materials Market Report 2024, 2025; Fisher, 2021).
What this tells me is that spandex isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. But what we can choose is how we respond.
Here’s the take-away message. You don’t need to purge your closet or feel guilty about what you already own (especially if you wear it for years). Awareness is the first step toward alignment. By learning more about what elastane is, how it’s made, and what it means for our bodies and the planet, we’re better equipped to make thoughtful, intentional decisions moving forward. And that’s what truly matters!
Your Take on Elastane
What’s your take on elastane? Do you feel differently about it after reading this article? Is it something you try to avoid, or are you feeling more in the middle? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below. This is a hot topic, and the more we share, the more we learn.
Want to go deeper into cleaner clothing? Read my article Non-Toxic Clothing: Feel Better Wearing Healthier Fabrics
Curious about how to start your low-toxic journey? Browse through my Ultimate Non-Toxic Living Guide for Beginners.
References & Scientific Sources
De Souza, F. M., Kahol, P. K., & Gupta, R. K. (2021). Introduction to Polyurethane chemistry. In ACS symposium series (pp. 1–24). https://doi.org/10.1021/bk-2021-1380.ch001
Empower. (2023, September 7). Elastane. Recycled Plastic. Retrieved July 7, 2025, from https://www.recycledplastic.com/elastane/
Fisher, G. (2021, June 28). Elastane materials expand with ‘responsible’ stretch | International Fiber Journal. International Fiber Journal | Fibers, Filaments & Processing Solutions. Retrieved July 6, 2025, from https://www.fiberjournal.com/elastane-materials-expand-with-responsible-stretch/
Kurańska, M., Prociak, A., Kirpluks, M., & Cabulis, U. (2015). Polyurethane–polyisocyanurate foams modified with hydroxyl derivatives of rapeseed oil. Industrial Crops and Products, 74, 849–857. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2015.06.006
Materials Market Report 2024. (2025, February 26). Textile Exchange. Retrieved July 7, 2025, from https://textileexchange.org/knowledge-center/reports/materials-market-report-2024/
NIOSH. (2014, April 23). Isocyanates. Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC). Retrieved August 5, 2025, from Link
Polyurethanes & diisocyanates. (2023, July 26). Chemical Safety Facts. Retrieved July 7, 2025, from Link
Polyurethane. (n.d.). American Chemistry Council. Retrieved July 6, 2025, from Link
Rathinamoorthy, R., Balasaraswathi, S. R., Madhubashini, S., Prakalya, A., Rakshana, J., & Shathvika, S. (2023). Investigation on microfiber release from elastane blended fabrics and its environmental significance. The Science of the Total Environment, 903, 166553. Link
Rossignolo, G., Malucelli, G., & Lorenzetti, A. (2023). Recycling of polyurethanes: where we are and where we are going. Green Chemistry, 26(3), 1132–1152. https://doi.org/10.1039/d3gc02091f
Sharmin, E., & Zafar, F. (2012b). Polyurethane: An Introduction. In InTech eBooks. https://doi.org/10.5772/51663
Tabone, M. D., Cregg, J. J., Beckman, E. J., & Landis, A. E. (2010). Sustainability Metrics: life cycle assessment and green design in polymers. Environmental Science & Technology, 44(21), 8264–8269. https://doi.org/10.1021/es101640n
Thermoset Plastic: Definition, Properties, and Examples. (2024, March 4). Chemistry Learner. Retrieved August 5, 2025, from Link
Tian, W., Huang, K., Zhu, C., Sun, Z., Shao, L., Hu, M., & Feng, X. (2022). Recent progress in biobased synthetic textile fibers. Frontiers in Materials, 9. Link
Zhang, G., Yin, T., Nian, G., & Suo, Z. (2021). Fatigue-resistant polyurethane elastomer composites. Extreme Mechanics Letters, 48, 101434. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.eml.2021.101434
0 Comments